one turn is all it takes

After 2 months of pumping NorCal surf, the swell is taking a breath, temporarily transforming into a shell of its fierce, wintery self.

I planned to take today off. With 1-2 foot waves on tap and a freshly cranked neck, it seemed like a good day to rest.

My sage plans were short-lived. By 10am, I was restless. The sun was shining, and I saw a couple of fun rides on the surf cams. Riding tiny nugs suddenly seemed much better than whatever else I could be doing.

I paddled out hoping the dropping tide would give the waves some punch. But like the Bills fans who just yesterday suffered yet another season-ending loss to the pesky Chiefs, these waves appeared to have nothing left to give.

My eyes darted around looking for something my shortboard could ride. I spotted three dolphins 50 yards out, and as they passed, a wedge formed and offered a frontside corner. I looked to my left and verified that I was the hooded seal in the best position.

I took off and got two slow top turns off. I thought the ride was over, but the wave merged with another one and I found myself on a slick face with a jolt of speed that allowed me to hit the closing section with a turn above my pay grade.

That one turn, it turns out, was exactly what I needed.