hello there
Six years into surfing and I've got more salty scribblings and spreadsheets than style. So instead of going pro, I built this project to make something tangible out of all the bliss and busted waves. Inside you'll find meandering diary entries, obsessively tracked stats, and a map plotting where my love affair with mama ocean has taken me.
August Brain Snack
"I always find the surf lineup a good vantage point from which to objectively review my situation and options. The enlightening perspective out there is partly a result of the inviolate solitude (interlopers are obvious on approach), and partly the effects of an aqueous environment womblike in its security, its easy, pacifying motion, its gently calmative murmur; circumstances that I believe put you in closer touch with the wisdom of the subconscious. And so it is with sadness, depression, angst, call a lowness of spirit what you will. When I hit the water with a surfstick, a lift is in the offing, along with a clarification of my thought processes."
— Allan Weisbecker in In Search of Captain Zero (2002)
Memories
